WARUNG IJO BACIRO
Humble Eatery Serving Javanese Delicacy
Updated on 4/16/2018
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Open every Monday - Friday
6.30 am - sold out
The green color dominating the walls of this humble dining place was the only hint for YogYES to find it. Located quite far from the main road and blocked by the cars parked in its front yard, YogYES team found it quite hard to find the stall, which was named after its color of decoration. There's no sign board or whatsoever that reads 'Warung Ijo' that might have helped us identify the eatery. When YogYES entered the not-too-big stall, there was a woman carrying a steaming medium-sized blirik (rough dot pattern) pot, which was then placed in between rows of plates, bowl, and other pots filled with various foods in the display window. Noticing our arrival, the woman, who is usually called Mbak Siti, smiled and invited us to choose and pick the foods ourselves.
My eyes were instantly cruising over, getting a bit confused by the numerous kinds of distinct Javanese processed vegetable and dish lining in the glass display. Various dishes such as brongkos, mangut, trancam, egg bacem, lodeh, oseng tempeh with lombok ijo, and many other dishes were boldly served in a modest eatery. However, buntil daun pepaya (grated coconut mixed with various spices and anchovies, wrapped in papaya leaves, and boiled in coconut milk)-one of their signature dishes, was nowhere to be seen in the line of dishes. According to Mbak Siti, there are usually 30 kinds of dish served, including buntil. However, since we came around lunch hour, some of the dishes were already sold out. If you wish to see the complete choice of the dishes, you would have to come around 7 am when the place has just opened. Not only do they offer various vegetable and side dishes, they also provide two kinds of rice here-white rice and brown rice.
After putting rice, brongkos, trancam, and ati ampela satay (chicken liver and gizzard) onto my plate, I headed straight to the closest unoccupied table. Actually, this buffet-style eatery located near Lempuyangan Train Station has a unique spot. Unfortunately, the seats near the entrance-providing a view of trains arriving at and departing from Jogja's oldest train station-were occupied.
Eager to fill the fussing empty stomach, I took my first bite of the smooth and soft brown rice with brongkos. Brongkos is Jogja's signature dish-similar in appearance to rawon or pindang soup-the broth uses Pangium edule ('keluwak') and contains small cubes of tofu, Gnetum gnemon peels, and black-eyed peas. Instead of being dominated by sweet taste like common brongkos, the brongkos made by Mbak Siti offers a perfect blend of savory and hot taste. The similar sweet-savory combination also emerged when I tasted the delicious ati ampela satay cooked with Klaten-style seasoning. Enjoyed along with fresh trancam-a mixture of kenikir leaves, cabbage, bean sprouts, long bean slices and spiced grated young coconut-and a glass of refreshing tamarind drink as the dessert, I instantly wanted to return to Warung Ijo Baciro sometimes later to try other delicacies served here.
Warung Ijo Baciro's selection of dishes has long been known for their delicacy among the customers, ever since the eatery began its business 50 years ago. It started even before Indonesian distinct culinary, including Javanese dishes, started to be listed in high-class restaurants menu. It's not surprising that the dishes and processed vegetables served here would have been sold out even before midday. Not only did the taste remind me of the delicacy my mother used to make back home, the price is also budget-friendly. That's what mad the food taste more special than those served in famous restaurants. It's too bad that it's not every day that we can enjoy these homey Javanese dishes, the recipes of which were inherited from Mbak Siti's own mother. This eatery only opens from Monday to Friday. "We'd like to go for a spa on weekends," said Mbak Siti jokingly while handing out the change for our payment.
Text DIAN NORRAS Photography JAYA TRI HARTONO
Copyright © 2015 YogYES.COM
How to get there:
from Lempuyangan Train Station to the east - go through the lower lane of Dr. Sutomo Flyover, straight to Jl. Argolubang - turn left to the front yard of Lotek Teteg - Warung Ijo Baciro (in front of the gas station/next to Lotek Teteg).