SATE KLATHAK PAK BARI
Imogiri's Signature Satay That Makes Queuing Feel Okay
0813 2880 0165 0813 2880 0165
Updated on 1/11/2018
See more photos (5 photos)
IDR 20,000 / serving
6:30 pm - sold out
Jejeran Wonokromo Market remained crowded though it had been past 7 pm. At the time YogYES arrived, the not-so-wide market road was full of vehicles, from motorcycles, cars, and even tour buses. Serving sales and purchase of motorcycle parts during the day, the marketplace is transformed into the trading venue of sate klathak Pak Sabari.
Sate klathak is mutton satay grilled on coals just like regular satay. The difference is the skewers. Instead of bamboo skewers, the mutton meat pieces are grilled using bicycle spokes. It is believed that the use of iron skewers to substitute for bamboo skewers will result in evenly-cooked mutton meat as iron is known as a good heat conductor.
After maghrib, around 6:30 pm, Pak Sabari or commonly known as Pak Bari would have already begun serving sate klathak with the help of his 7 employers. As the queue kept getting longer, YogYES had no choice but to immediately place our orders. If not, we were just worried that it would take even longer for our orders to be served. The reason for this was because Sate Klathak Pak Bari kept gaining more and more popularity and customers since being used to shoot for the movie AADC 2, where the main character Rangga invited Cinta to dine. Since then, according to Pak Bari, the 50 kg mutton meat that used to last till 2 am in the morning now only last till 9 pm, even with twice the amount of meat.
"Please come in, what would you like to order? We have sate klathak, tongseng (meat stew in sweet coconut-milk-based soup), tengkleng (mutton savory soup), gulai jeroan (innards stew in savory coconut-milk-based soup). Which one would you choose? How many servings?" An employer of Pak Bari asked one of us when we approached the rombong sate (satay cart).
The culinary business that has been passed down to Pak Bari from his father does not only provide sate klathak but also several other mutton-based menus. The beverage, on the other hand, consists of warm orange squash, hot tea, iced orange squash, and iced tea. What made it special is that all of the hot drinks used rock sugar instead of granulated sugar. We decided to order sate klathak, tongseng kambing, and some drinks. After ordering, we headed to the lesehan (seating arrangement on mats, without chairs) set along the market's corridor as the table seating provided had been fully occupied by other customers who had been waiting longer than we did.
While busy mounting the meat slices onto the iron skewers before grilling them, Pak Bari told us that he is the third generation in the sate klathak business. "My grandfather, Mbah Ambyah, was the first to run the business back then. He said he had been in the business even before Indonesia proclaimed its independence. After that, it was passed on my father, Pak Wakidi. I took over from around 1992, but I've been helping since I was 15 years old."
There's also a particular reason that the business chose Jejeran Market as its business base. According to Pak Bari, Jejeran Market was where Mbah Ambyah settled down after peddling around door-to-door, selling satay on his shoulder using rombong sate (satay carts) for quite a long time. What's different was that back then Mbah Ambyah operated his business under a waru tree instead of in a market kiosk as it is today. After Mbah Ambyah was gone, Pak Wakidi continued the culinary business by renting a shop. After several times of moving from one shop to another, eventually he returned to one of the previous locations, where a market had been established.
The name sate klathak was also used only after Pak Bari took over the business. It all began with habit of looking for melinjo (Gnetum gnemon) nuts to sell for extra earning while he was helping with the satay business. While grilling satay, Pak Bari put melinjo nuts on the mutton meat he had been grilling, just for fun. The term klathak is the name used to refer to the flesh of melinjo. That's where the idea of using the name klathak came from. However, some also said that the name sate klathak was derived from the grilling of the mutton meat that sounds "klathak-klathak" (crackling) sound.
It took quite a long time for our orders to be served as the queue was long enough. When I took a first bite of the sate klathak, the mutton meat produced a very dominant salty taste. Been a favorite culinary of Riri Riza, Mira Lesmana, and some other of the capital city's celebrities, the satay is grilled with only salt as the seasoning, without peanut sauce, shallot, or chili pepper as commonly used when making regular satay. That's why sate klathak also is called minimalist-seasoning satay. It will taste better when we combine it with soy sauce and gulai gravy. The satay meat was tender since they only use the meat of a 8-to-9-month-old goats and they are medium-grilled but evenly cooked. Just like the satay, the tongseng kambing cooked by Pak Bari is also delicious with the perfect combination of spicy and sweet taste.
A portion of sate klathak is offered at 20K, including rice, gulai gravy, and a glass of drink. A portion of sate klathak consists of 2 skewers, each containing 6 meat slices. For a moment I thought that the portion was too small. However, it turned out that this was indeed the correct portion for those with hypertension. As quoted from Kompas Daily, nutritionist Ati Nirwanawati said, "People with hypertension is advised to consume 50 grams of meat per serving, or equal to 2-3 skewers of non-fatty satay." Aside from being said to improve blood pressure, mutton eat is also capable of preventing anemia as it has a relatively high content of calorie, protein, and iron to increase Hemoglobin level.
So, would you just miss out this delicious, nutritious culinary?
Text DIAN NORRAS Photography DANIEL ANTONIUS KRISTANTO
Copyright © 2016 YogYES.COM
How to get there:
From Giwangan Bus Station, head south - Jl. Imogiri Timur - Jejeran intersection, go straight - turn left at Jejeran Wonokromo T-junction - Sate Klathak Pak Bari.