Delicious Fishes from Freshwater in the Conflux of Two Rivers

Tempuran Ngancar, Mangir Kidul, Sendangsari, Pajangan, Bantul, Yogyakarta, Indonesia
0812 2894 2283 0877 3879 6624 0878 3841 2298

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Snakehead fish and various freshwater fish dishes from River Bedog and Progo is the prima donna of a restaurant located where Ki Ageng Wonoboyo once reigned in the past. Here, you can also find other unique, rare culinary.

Updated on 24 September 2018

See 10 photos of Rumah Makan Legokan Ngancar

Open daily
9 am - 8 pm

The earthquake that hit Jogja and the surrounding areas in mid-2006 was the historical background of the establishment of a restaurant on the bank of Ngancar conflux, where River Bedog and River Progo greet each other. Located in a rather hidden location, YogYES had to find this restaurant with the help of Google and GPS. Finally, our team found a compound of simple huts and a main building with a banner that read "Rumah Makan Legokan Ngancar" on it.

Upon stepping into the main building, a manageress greeted us while handing out the menu. Luck was with us today as all dishes in the menu were ready, except for sayur asam (sour soup). Various freshwater fish dishes, vegetables, and sambal were in the menu listed at Legokan Ngancar Restaurant, all at budget-friendly rates.

Upon placing our orders, we waited in one of the huts, sitting on the provided mats. From afar, some people were seen fishing at the watergate that served as a partition between River Bedog and River Progo while also serving as a linking bridge that connected Mangir Village and Siyangan. Aside from that point, fishers were also seen crowding several other points along both sides of the riverbank. It's was not unusual as the area around Ngancar conflux has long been a favorite destination for fishing. Mr. Basri recognized this particular potential as well, and thus Legokan Ngancar Restaurant was established there. He transformed the huts, formerly serving as shelters for earthquake victims, into dining places distinctive to that of rural areas.

Minutes had passed with no signs of our orders being served. I decided to explore the surrounding area around the restaurant until I accidentally met Mrs. Surat, Mr. Basri's wife, who was picking cassava leaves. From Mrs. Surat, I learned that all vegetables processed in the restaurant were taken from their own garden and were picked only when it's time to cook. That means the vegetables are always fresh from the garden.

A sign board that looked like a simple map got my attention. "Peta Wisata Desa Mangir" (Mangir Tourism Village Map) was written on it in capital letters. The main tourism objects are the village roads and sites that had witnessed Mangir Village's history, such as Batu Gilang, Batu Lumpang, Lembu Andini, Lingga Yoni, and Ki Ageng Mangir Wonoboyo's sanctuary. The village's history is an integral part of the heroic history of Ki Ageng Mangir Wonoboyo, Mangir independent region's leader during the Mataram Kingdom age. His love story has always been considered a tragic one as his life ended in his own father-in-law's hands, Panembahan Senopati, the ruler of Mataram Kingdom. The story began where Ki Ageng Mangir Wonoboyo was considered a revolt for his rejection against the caste system and his refusal to bend the knee to any rulers, including that of Mataram Kingdom. With a made-up wedding, the Majapahit clan was eventually conquered.

After taking some time exploring the surrounding area of Ngancar conflux, I returned to the hut, just right when Mrs. Surat served our orders. It took almost one hour to wait for our orders to be served. No wonder our stomachs were protesting, starving. Placing orders in this restaurant does need patience as Mrs. Surat would only cook the ordered foods when orders have been placed. If you don't feel like waiting for quite a long time like we did, the restaurant also offers order placement by phone. That means, your orders would have been ready by the time you arrive.

On the table, a line of freshwater fishes, fried or cooked in mangut recipe, waved teasingly to us. A number of sambals and vegetables were also served on the table. A bowl of mangut fish in yellow gravy stood out from the crowd of fried fishes on our table. At a glance, it didn't look much different from common catfish mangut. However, once we tasted it, it turned out that the meat was thicker than catfish. I learned sometimes later that the mangut Mrs. Surat cooked used snakehead fish taken from River Progo. It appeared that Mr. Basri and Mrs. Surat considered catfish mangut to be way too mainstream and instead chose Channa striata to replace that "mustached" fish.

Another dish that attracted our curiosity was a bowl of lompong (taro stem) soup in yellow gravy. To the best of my knowledge, there are only few restaurants that serve soup made of the stem of this caladium plant. I felt like a tickling and itchy sensation when tasting these taro stem slices. Instead of itchy, however, the taro stem soup made by Mrs. Surat tasted delicious with a combination of spicy, sweet, and fresh taste. The rare vegetable cuisine instantly became the prima donna of our tongues.

The long trip to this hidden place and the long waiting for the orders were all repaid by the tasty foods Mrs. Surat made. The rural atmosphere in Legokan Ngancar, the sound of water flowing through River Bedog and Progo, and the soft wind added to our enjoyment.